Img2gco - Revision history

NebarnixWikiSysop at 17:53, 14 April 2015

2015-04-14T17:53:28Z

2015-04-14T17:47:50Z

2015-04-13T17:56:14Z

2015-04-13T17:29:49Z

added images

2015-04-13T17:20:32Z

added white level border skipping.

2015-04-07T15:54:56Z

2015-04-07T14:37:36Z

New page! Added lasers!

2015-04-07T14:29:09Z

New page: result! http://www.nebarnix.com/img2gco/

New page

result!
http://www.nebarnix.com/img2gco/

@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 * '''Scangap''' [mm/line]: - This is the distance between lines which is a function of your laser spot size. You need to make this small enough so there aren't visible unburned lines. For my laser this is 0.05 though I can usually get away with 0.075 because its faster. 0.1 leaves visible lines, which is kind of a cool effect. You can try to defocus your laser to make thicker lines for shorter overall total time, but you will have to increase your power. Note that if lines start to overlap you might need to bring your power down slightly.
-* '''Start X''' [mm from 0 for right of image]: - X value to start image from. The laser will start here and move in the positive direction as it scans.
+* '''Start X''' [mm from 0 for right of image]: - X value to start image from. The laser will start here and '''move in the positive direction''' as it scans.These X,Y points correspond to the *'''top right'''* of the image.
-* '''Start Y''' [mm from 0 for top of image]: - Y value to start image from. The laser will start here and move in the positive direction as it scans.
+* '''Start Y''' [mm from 0 for top of image]: - Y value to start image from. The laser will start here and '''move in the positive direction''' as it scans.These X,Y points correspond to the *'''top right'''* of the image.

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 The script can be acessed at the following link: http://www.nebarnix.com/img2gco/
 Jpeg, gif or PNG images can be used and they do not require conversion to grayscale (that happens inside with the magic and stuff). I am not quite sure what happens if you feed it grayscale images. Also, depending on your machine's axes the image may or may not need flipped or rotated. At some point I will implement this but for now you should make a small 10mm test and see for yourself.
 ==TODO==
 Lots of stuff to do, but it would be nice to have:
 * Bidirectional mode
 * Flip images with tic boxes (in case machines have inverted coordinate axes -- 0,0 NOT front left)

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 Lots of stuff to do, but it would be nice to have:
 * Bidirectional mode
-* flip images with tic boxes
+* Flip images with tic boxes (in case machines have inverted coordinate axes -- 0,0 NOT front left)
 * generate a power calibration script and greyscale boxes.
 * Stationary Dot-matrix mode with variable power pulses instead of traveling lines. Newsprinty-halftony-thingy.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:29, 13 April 2015
Line 21:		Line 21:
	Etching paper has proved pointless, as the difference between a mark and a full through burn is incredibly small. However, balsa wood has proven to work extremely well and the results have been most satisfying!		Etching paper has proved pointless, as the difference between a mark and a full through burn is incredibly small. However, balsa wood has proven to work extremely well and the results have been most satisfying!

		+	[[Image:Yuri laser MDF img2gco.jpg\|thumb\|left\|MDF darkens very nicely]][[Image:Yuri_stamp_MDF_img2gco.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Yuri Gagain stamp for Yuri's Night]]
		+	<br clear="both" />
	[[Image:LaserTest1.jpg\|thumb\|left\| First tests. Not too bad!!]][[Image:LaserTest2.jpg\|thumb\|none\|More testing! More laserz!]]		[[Image:LaserTest1.jpg\|thumb\|left\| First tests. Not too bad!!]][[Image:LaserTest2.jpg\|thumb\|none\|More testing! More laserz!]]

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 Lots of stuff to do, but it would be nice to have:
 * Bidirectional mode
 * flip images with tic boxes
 * generate a power calibration script and greyscale boxes.
 * Stationary Dot-matrix mode with variable power pulses instead of traveling lines. Newsprinty-halftony-thingy.
 ==Solidoodle 3 2W Blue Laser Results==

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:37, 7 April 2015
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	~~result~~!	+	==Problem Statement==
−	http://www.nebarnix.com/img2gco/	+	I got a 2W blue laser and I zip tied it to my 3D printer to cut simple shapes out of paper and cardstock. I attempted to find rasterization programs for image etching but I could not find anything worth using. I decided to write my own program because it seemed somewhat trivial yet also, well, lasers!
		+
		+	==Link==
		+	The script can be acessed at the following link: http://www.nebarnix.com/img2gco/
		+	Jpeg, gif or PNG images can be used and they do not require conversion to grayscale (that happens inside with the magic and stuff). I am not quite sure what happens if you feed it grayscale images. Also, depending on your machine's axes the image may or may not need flipped or rotated. At some point I will implement this but for now you should make a small 10mm test and see for yourself.
		+
		+	==Solidoodle 3 2W Blue Laser Results==
		+	Etching paper has proved pointless, as the difference between a mark and a full through burn is incredibly small. However, balsa wood has proven to work extremely well and the results have been most satisfying!
		+
		+	[[Image:LaserTest1.jpg\|thumb\|left\| First tests. Not too bad!!]][[Image:LaserTest2.jpg\|thumb\|none\|More testing! More laserz!]]